An evening of exceptional cooking and inventive cocktails, the inaugural Sorrel × Silent Pool Gin dining experience in Dorking proved to be a winning formula. Visit Surrey's Matthew Williams was among the lucky diners.
Photos: Matthew Williams
REVIEW: When one of Surrey’s leading Michelin-starred restaurants joins forces with a local gin distillery that has spent years rewriting the rulebook and putting our county firmly on the international drinks map, you might expect something rather special to happen.
Visit Surrey had the pleasure of attending the inaugural Sorrel × Silent Pool Gin dining experience, held at the acclaimed restaurant in Dorking and hosted by owner-chef Steve Drake.
The concept for the evening was simple yet inspired: a bespoke tasting menu curated by chef-patron Alex Payne, thoughtfully paired with a series of artfully crafted Silent Pool Gin cocktails - a true celebration of Surrey’s food and drink heritage.
From the outset, the room hummed with energy. The creativity and camaraderie of the kitchen were on full display - quite literally - as the chefs work inside a modern glass box kitchen adjoining the restaurant’s beautifully preserved 300-year-old building - before personally delivering each dish to the ten tables in the intimate dining room.
Guests were treated to five exceptional courses, complemented by elegant appetisers, irresistibly soft milk bread, a refreshing Silent Pool sorbet to cleanse the palate and petit fours to finish.
Most of the dishes were meticulously paired with a bespoke Silent Pool cocktail, while the two main courses saw the restaurant’s sommelier take centre stage.
We begin with three exquisite bites. A playful savoury take on the classic Jammie Dodger pairs crisp chicken skin with chicken liver parfait and a sharp spike of sauce (I could happily have eaten a trayful). Alongside it, a delicate steak tartare tartlet with pear and shallots, and a decadent cheese and truffle concoction wrapped in crisp potato. If anticipation wasn’t already high, these opening bites raise it another notch.
These are paired with a crisp Wild Pear cocktail, which is inspired by Silent Pool's early days distilling pear eau de vie.
Then comes a poached oyster, light and foamy, with cucumber and botanical vinegar, accompanied by a Whisper Martini, which is an aromatic twist on the classic cocktail with subtle hints of cardamom bitters. Magic.
One of my favourite dishes of the evening is the beetroot with horseradish mousse and walnut - vibrant, beautifully presented and packing a punch, delivering a kaleidoscope of flavours, textures and temperatures that dance across the palate.
That pillowy milk bread and whipped butter then make a welcome entrance. I could have ordered a whole bakery's worth.
The Corsican stone bass, served with cauliflower purée, fennel and citrus gin, is an elegantly balanced dish, and beautifully paired with a fresh French white.
Then the flavours grow bolder still: Highland red deer, finished on the barbecue, served with Jerusalem artichoke and juniper - smoky, rich and deeply satisfying - alongside a velvety Rioja.
A zingy sorbet refreshes, then we finish with a white chocolate and citrus tart drizzled with honey. This is paired with a Bee’s Knees cocktail, Silent Pool's take on the Ritz Paris classic and celebrating the honey in their flagship gin.
A relaxed evening of exceptional dining showcased the supremely confident cooking at this deservedly starred restaurant, while also demonstrating the remarkable versatility of Silent Pool Gin as a sophisticated pairing partner.
Some evenings are so memorable you find yourself wishing to experience them again and again - this was unquestionably one of them.
Unsurprisingly, the first two Sorrel × Silent Pool Gin dining experiences sold out almost instantly. However, there are whispers in the Surrey Hills that more dates may appear in the future.
The evening felt like a celebration - and, as it turned out, it was. Just days later, Sorrel was awarded four AA Rosettes for the first time. It's great to see how smoothly chef Alex Payne has transitioned from his hugely successful time at Great Fosters' The Tudor Pass to leading the team at Sorrel.
As for Silent Pool Gin? With spring in the air, the distillery's new glass-enclosed terrace overlooking the original tranquil, spring-fed Silent Pool is set to come into its own as the weather warms. We’ll see you there!
- Sorrel, 77 South Street, Dorking, Surrey RH4 2JU. For more information, visit their website here.
- Silent Pool Gin distillery, Shere Road, Albury, Guildford, Surrey GU5 9BW. For more information, visit their website here.
- Find out more about Silent Pool's upcoming events: Silent Pool G&Tea Party, Silent Pool Gin Distillery Tour, Perfect Pairings: Rose Experience and The Awakening of the Bees - Spring Dining Experience.
Share your favourite Surrey hotels, pubs and restaurants with us on social media at @visitsurrey and @foodchatmatt
What we ate:
Sorrel x Silent Pool Gin dining experience - tasting menu
Oyster
Poached oyster, oyster foam, cucumber and botanical vinegar
Beetroot
English heritage beetroot, horseradish, dill and walnut
Stone Bass
Corsican stone bass, cauliflower, fennel and citrus gin
Venison
Highland red deer, Jerusalem artichoke, juniper and haunch
Honey
Wild flower honey, white chocolate, citrus purée and yoghurt
