Recently awarded two AA rosettes, Theion restaurant in Guildford aims to deliver an authentic yet elevated Greek culinary experience. Matthew Williams visits for a rich taste of the Mediterranean in the heart of Surrey.
Photos: Matthew Williams
REVIEW: Sunshine. Often you start to get a feel for a restaurant from a distance while longingly browsing through the photos of others - and, with Theion in Guildford, there always seems to be an overriding sense of warmth, vibrancy and sunshine to the images that leak out onto the internet and prove so incredibly tempting.
Inspired by the history, community and exceptional culinary craftsmanship of Greek hospitality, Theion’s ethos is to tell a story of heritage and innovation through traditional meze plates and modern interpretations of classic dishes.
Intrigued, I had wanted to visit for some time before the opportunity finally presented itself. When the day arrived, my only concern was that perhaps I had set my bar of expectations impossibly high. I just had a feeling that Theion was going to be a very special restaurant and, as it turns out, I needn't have worried.
A journey of discovery
Blink and you'd miss this informal fine dining restaurant while strolling along Chapel Street, one of the collection of narrow lanes and alleyways that lead off from Guildford's cobbled High Street and towards the picturesque Castle Grounds.
And, if you did walk past without attempting to book a table for lunch or dinner, you'd certainly be missing out.
While the entrance may be diminutive, one step inside opens up another world entirely. On a sunny spring day, the surprisingly spacious dining room is spectacularly lit by natural light flooding through the windows. Formerly a church, it’s now all red brick, wood and Mediterranean warmth.
There’s an informal, almost playful, nature to the experience at Theion. The waiters are relaxed and welcoming, while even the menu lives and breathes at its own pace. Designed to be shared by the whole table, each dish is served when it's ready.
It encourages exploration. It's the kind of place where the waiters must hear "I'd love one of everything" a lot - and the reality is I'm still a little gutted by some of the options we left on the menu. But there's always next time to look forward to – and, hopefully, next time will be soon.
Food with heart
Confident, passionate and creative, Chef Tamas took over the culinary reins at Theion in July 2024, and there is a real sense of excitement around what is happening at the restaurant. In fact, it gained two AA rosettes earlier this spring. From what we experienced, it’s easy to see why and a matter of time before there are more plaudits if they keep pulling in the same direction.
I often think that a restaurant’s bread offering says an awful lot about what’s to come and at Theion the basket of charred handmade pita with dips (Tzatziki, Tarama, Tirokafteri and Aubergine Cream) was an utterly moreish way to start our meal. Each dip was packed full of fresh flavours, while you’ll want to order a lifetime's supply of the pita to take home.
The Chicken Yeeros Taco had come highly recommended by previous diners and it’s easy to see why. They’re beautifully balanced packages of sweet, spicy and crunchy goodness that fire up your palate and leave you wanting more.
A revelation
And the Epiros filo feta were an absolute revelation. They explode your senses in the best possible way and each bite is magnificent. The honey, the feta, the crispiness of the filo, the blanket of sesame. Just simple but gorgeous eating that really soars.
Croquettes are a long-time favourite of mine and Theion’s version with rich 48h cooked Surrey Farm beef brisket, pastrami seasoning and black truffle emulsion don’t disappoint.
Decisions became even more difficult at this stage. After much debate, we opt for a couple of the bigger dishes - but frankly everything looked like a must-try, whether it’s Traditional Moussaka, Lamb Kleftiko etc from the signature dishes, Spaghetti alla Chitarra from the hot dishes or the always appealing Souvlaki.
As it was, we ordered the Beef Giouvetsi with orzo pasta, red Peloponnese wine, slow cooked beef and dry xinomizithra cheese and the Pan-roasted halibut with skordalia espuma, pickled walnuts, horta greens, bottarga and crispy tempura pearls to get a broad touch feel for things.
Both dishes were beautifully presented and, again, had that vibrancy of ingredients that shines through everything that Theion does. The beef was rich and heart-warming (that sauce…!), while the halibut was playful fine dining.
To finish things off, I couldn’t resist the Crème Brûlée with a Portokalopita (Greek Orange cake) twist. Just a little more of that sunshine delivered right there.
Sit back and relax
Suffice to say, Chef Tamas and his team know their way around the kitchen. They create the kind of food that makes you fall in love with eating all over again.
And it’s all served by a team that help to put you at ease with trying something new, in an atmosphere that makes you settle a little deeper into your seat and relax - like some sort of foodie spa experience.
Apparently, Theion means “divine” in Ancient Greek and it seems perfectly fitting.
As the last of the evening sun dips below the distant Surrey Hills horizon and the final drop of wine is poured, Theion feels like one of those blissful holiday restaurant discoveries that you stumble upon while exploring a hidden “old town” quarter.
I look forward to booking a return ticket to explore the menu further as soon as possible - and you should, too. Theion is a restaurant that should have all the locals talking, but it's also somewhere that is well worth the journey for something a little bit special too.
- Theion, Chapel Street, Centenary Hall, Guildford, Surrey GU13UHL. For more information, visit their website here.
- Share your favourite Surrey hotels, pubs and restaurants with us on social media at @visitsurrey and @foodchatmatt
What we ate
Snacks
Basket of handmade pita charred ,extra virgin olive oil, oregano, Maldon sea salt, £4
Selection of Dips (Tzatziki, Tarama, Tirokafteri, Aubergine Cream), £10
Chicken Yeeros Taco, honey emulsion, crispy onion, baby gem, fermented chilli sauce, paprika, £5 / each
Small plates
Epiros filo feta, crispy filo pastry, honey, mixed colour sesame seeds, £9
48h cooked Surrey Farm beef brisket croquettes, pastrami seasoning, black truffle emulsion, £10
Hot plates
Beef Giouvetsi, orzo pasta, red Peloponnese wine, slow cooked beef, dry xinomizithra cheese, £22
Pan roasted halibut, skordalia espuma, pickled walnuts, horta greens, bottarga, crispy tempura pearls, £25
Desserts
Portokalopita Crème Brûlée, with crispy angel hair, vanilla ice cream and candied orange zest, £9
Drinks
2022 Robola, San Gerasimo / Cephalonia, Greece, £40
While you're there
- Guildford Castle Grounds - 0.1 miles away
- Yvonne Arnaud Theatre - 0.1 miles away
- Watts Gallery - 3 miles away
- Greyfriars Vineyard - 5 miles away
