One of Surrey’s longest established restaurants, Kinghams has been welcoming diners to the quintessentially English village of Shere for more than 30 years. Matthew Williams visits to discover why their contemporary fine dining keeps people coming back for more.
Photos: Kinghams and Matthew Williams
REVIEW: The chocolate box pretty village of Shere is without doubt one of Surrey's most famous destinations.
Every year, social media influencers and international travellers, visit this picturesque corner of the Surrey Hills in search of Cameron Diaz, Jude Law and romantic Hollywood vibes.
Almost 20 years ago, back in 2006, The Holiday made its debut on our cinema screens and, if anything, its influence seems to grow with every year – whatever you think of the actual movie…
While the idyllic countryside cottage that was built especially for the film is long gone, it's still easy to slip into the dream of Shere with its pristine countryside, quaint streets and ancient pub.
And there, on the edge of this cinematic village, you'll find a restaurant that could easily have been a star attraction in the film.
History and heritage
All old English charm, with a lush secret garden, Kinghams opened in 1993 and has had a longevity that few restaurants in Surrey can match.
Its history goes back a lot further than that, however. Built circa 1620, it was once known as Hangman’s Cottage and its occupant worked at the Shere gibbet - which sounds delightful until you discover it’s where public executions once took place.
Thankfully, no such punishments occur in the village today – although the locals may occasionally be tempted to reconsider for visitors parking erratically on weekends and late-night revellers who re-enact their favourite movie scenes too enthusiastically.
But, back to the Kinghams of today, the reins of which passed on to current owners Jack Forrest Foster and Mohssine El Faddi in 2019.
Mohssine originally joined Kinghams as a chef in 2006, before heading off on his adventures, while Jack had been with the team as manager since 2012 – so they were always safe hands to carry the mantle for this local institution.
Today, they remain champions of quality seasonal produce, including veg from Secretts, locally sourced meats, and drinks from the likes of Albury Organic Vineyard, Chilworth Manor Vineyard and Silent Pool Distillers, which are all found only minutes down the road.
The wine list is vast and, like the inspiration for the menus, not restricted by geography – and it features individual recommendations from both owners throughout. A nice touch.
A home from home
You enter Kinghams via the garden, through lush vegetation and plantings, past a trickling pond and through a diminutive “don’t forget to duck” entrance to be greeted by the friendly front of house team – as well as Mr Kingham’s sculpture.
(Editor’s note: The restaurant is named after original owner Paul Baker’s late grandfather Reginald Kingham, and the bust on display was created by Paul’s mother. Paul is still a regular visitor to the restaurant, and in fact lives next door.)
Inside, the restaurant is a cosy and intimate place with oak beams and white linen tablecloths. On sunny days, you can also dine al fresco in the pretty garden.
It's fine dining but it wears that style with a homely smile. You can almost feel the generations of birthdays and anniversaries that must have passed through. While the ceilings are low, the tables are well spaced. It’s a thoroughly romantic little place.
A celebration of seasonality
We settle into our sitting with a glass of Albury Vineyard’s exquisite Blanc de Blanc and freshly baked bread. Around us, it’s all smiles as friends gather for their evening of celebration and the promise of good food.
The Kinghams menu is super tight but beautifully well balanced with four choices for each of the potential four courses.
Visiting in May, at the height of asparagus season, the hyperlocal Secretts asparagus with black sesame labneh, black garlic emulsion and confit egg yolk was a must order to start – and the labneh (a staple of Middle Eastern and Mediterranean cuisine) added an intriguing and delicious depth to the beautifully crisp veg. Mouthwatering.
The Silent Pool gin cured trout was presented like a modern art masterpiece, with each slice of trout individually garnished by horseradish, citrus or pickles. Super fresh eating with pops of excitement across the plate.
Divine combinations
Then it was onto two fascinating dishes: the Local braised venison ravioli with mixed garden vegetables and marsala foam and the Balsamic glazed octopus with braised fennel, puffed wild rice and preserved lemon gel.
The venison was carefully tucked away inside a single pasta parcel and smothered in a gloriously tangy marsala foam. Together it made for a divine combination with the garden vegetables helping to lighten the journey a touch.
The octopus, at first glance, could prove daunting for some – a serious cephalopod that must have taken some wrestling to capture. You worry that it’s going to be as tough to eat as it probably once acted around the reef. But it’s not. If anything, it’s delicate. Perfectly cooked.
Heading back into more traditional territory for the mains, I opted for the Duck duo of smoked breast and confit leg with onion and orange blossom jam, apricot puree and heritage carrot while my wife chose the Butter poached cod with herb crust, fregola fricassee, confit cherry tomatoes and beurre blanc.
The duck dish almost floats on a bed of sultry smoke that helps it to sing, rather than overpowering everything, while the cod is a delicate dream. Operating at opposite ends of the spectrum, they showcase that the kitchen has a command of big, bold flavours as well as natural subtlety.
On the day of our visit, it’s been a rare retreat to cold and wet almost wintery weather, and so to finish I can’t resist the Rhubarb and ginger oat crumble tart with tonka bean custard. Otherwise, I would have probably chosen the tempting White peach baked Alaska. As it is, it’s a homely and comforting way to finish a fantastic meal.
I barely get a mouthful of Sylviane’s Dark chocolate delice with white chocolate sponge and passionfruit sorbet, but it receives complete approval from across the table – with particular words of praise for the zingy “in the moment” freshness of the sorbet.
It’s all in the balance
Kinghams walks a very clever path. They absolutely respect the restaurant’s history and act as a postcard of sorts to the past, but they bring this tradition firmly into the now with exciting and well-judged twists and contemporary plating.
Speaking to Jack and Mohssine after our meal, it’s very evident how much pride they take in being custodians of this little haven of Surrey food and drink heritage.
If Cameron Diaz and Jude Law ever happen to be back in the area looking to rekindle their on-screen romance, I absolutely recommend they book a table for two among these 400-year-old walls. It’s a special place and it should be on the itinerary of any local foodie – whether you've got an interest in early 2000 romcoms or not…
- Kinghams Restaurant, Gomshall Lane, Shere, Guildford, Surrey GU5 9HE. For more information, visit their website
- Kinghams Midweek Treat: Visit for lunch, Tuesday to Friday, or dinner, Tuesday to Thursday, and enjoy three courses for £47 or four-courses for £55.
- Share your favourite Surrey hotels, pubs and restaurants with us on social media at @visitsurrey and @foodchatmatt
What we ate
To Begin
Secretts asparagus with black sesame labneh, black garlic emulsion and confit egg yolk, £10.95
Silent Pool gin cured trout with buttermilk, horseradish, citrus and pickles, £11.95
The In Between
Local braised venison ravioli with mixed garden vegetables and marsala foam, £12.95
Balsamic glazed octopus with braised fennel, puffed wild rice and preserved lemon gel. £12.95
To Follow
Duck duo of smoked breast and confit leg with onion and orange blossom jam, apricot puree and heritage carrot, £25.95
Butter poached cod with herb crust, fregola fricassee, confit cherry tomatoes and beurre blanc, £25.95
Steamed broccoli florets with cider and rapeseed vinaigrette, £4.50
Jersey royal potatoes with olive oil and chives, £4.50
To Finish
Rhubarb and ginger oat crumble tart with tonka bean custard, £9.95
Dark chocolate delice with white chocolate sponge and passionfruit sorbet, £9.95
Drinks
Albury Vineyard Blanc de Blanc, Surrey, £13.50 a glass
Domaine Colonge Fleurie 2022, France, £52
While you’re there
- Explore the village of Shere
- Silent Pool Distillery - 0.9 miles away
- Albury Organic Vineyard – 1.1 miles away
- High Clandon Estate Vineyard – 2 miles away
- Newlands Corner – 2.2 miles away
- Chilworth Manor Vineyard – 2.4 miles away
- Visit Guildford – 6 miles away
- Hello Dorking – 6 miles away
